Rotting Ceiling in the Bathhouse - DO NOT WARM UP WITH MINIMATE! How do we insulate?

I welcome you, dear readers, the topic of today's article is how to insulate the ceiling of a bathhouse and how to do it better. In the last article, we chose the optimal ceiling height, now we will go directly to the device and insulation of the bath ceiling.

A bit of theory. We all know very well that warm air is lighter than cold and rises up to the ceiling. And imagine a situation - hot steam went up and the ceiling was cold. What will happen? That's right, condensation will drop out. You take a steam bath with brooms in the bath, and rain drips on you :). Let's see what the wrong insulation of the ceiling and the lack of vapor barrier can do:

• Constant wetting of ceilings and as a result of their premature destruction.
• Very quick cooling of the bath, possibly in the cold season the steam room will not be able to warm up properly.
• Excessive consumption of firewood or electricity.
• The real danger of the destruction of ceilings.

Correct insulation of the ceiling

In this we will tell you how to avoid all these problems and properly insulate the ceiling. The whole process can be divided into three key stages:

1. Steam room ceiling insulation.
2. Moisture insulation of the attic.
3. Vapor barrier.

We, as builders, at this time have a serious advantage over our ancestors - the modern construction market offers a wide range of different thermal insulation materials for every taste and budget. Let's look at the most popular thermal insulation materials.

The most popular method of warming the bath

This method is suitable for baths with or without an attic. The main condition for insulation is mounted ceiling ceilings. Before starting the installation of thermal insulation, you need to how to treat wooden beams with an antiseptic. We present to your attention, in my opinion, the most correct installation scheme of a heater:

Stage 1. On the inside of the bath we attach a vapor barrier to the ceiling. Details about the vapor barrier of the ceilings in the bathhouse we described in this article. In short, for a bath, a vapor barrier that is composed of a layer of aluminum is best suited. Aluminum protects the vapor barrier and thermal insulation well against moisture, and also reflects the thermal radiation back into the room, which allows to reduce the heating time by 2! times. The vapor barrier is attached to the beams using a construction stapler, the fastening points are best treated with a special heat-resistant sealant. The seams of the vapor barrier are glued with adhesive tape, the vapor barrier sheets are overlapped with an approach of 4-5 centimeters.

Laying vapor barrier - sectional diagram

From a different angle, white material - vapor barrier

Tight insulation

As you can see, even a novice in the construction business can make the insulation of the ceiling of the bath. In the attic, we also recommend that you lay special guides and lay the floorboard. Both the waterproofing is intact, and the attic is freely accessible. You can start harvesting brooms.

I will tell you a couple of cases:

One very non-poor citizen ordered a bathhouse from us, let’s call it I. the bathhouse was large, he himself drove a Mercedes and asked to insulate the ceiling with mineral wool during construction. I warned him that I would do it, but I take responsibility off the ceiling. A year later, he called me to his country house. I already knew why. As a result, I came and see that the ceiling under the lining has decayed. Then I reminded him of our conversation during the delivery of the bath and he agreed with me. All redid, naturally at his expense. He brought him a full gazelle of sawdust and insulated. Three years have passed and he does not bother me. Unfortunately I didn’t film the problems with the ceiling, I’m biting my elbows now (

This year we began to build a bath in Yelabuga. The neighbors found out that Bery Banya had arrived, and there five people had accumulated with a request to inspect one's house and one's bathhouse. Then I already took the phone with me and took a couple of moments.

Step-by-step ceiling insulation in a cold-roofed bath

A warm stream of air always tends upward, so if the ceiling in the bath is not sufficiently insulated, the steam room will suffer from a constant loss of heat going out into the street. With a warming of the ceiling under a cold roof, every self-respecting bath owner faces. At first glance, the work seems hard. But if there is a step-by-step instruction, which insulation to choose and how to lay it yourself, everyone will cope with the insulation of the surface.

Layer No. 1: vapor barrier

The main objective of this layer is to prevent the entry of fumes into the insulation. All vapors rising from a heated room should be held. As an insulator for this layer can be used for years proven materials such as glassine or roofing. Or more modern geosynthetic coatings, various membranes and thermofol. Well, if the coating is foil, then it can also shield the heat, returning it to the room.

Layer No. 2: thermal insulation

The second layer of the insulating cake should retain heat, not letting it out. A wide variety of materials can be used here. Which to choose, prompt the budget and your own skills in carrying out construction work. It is important that the insulation is as light as possible (then it will not create an unnecessary load on structures that are resistant to moisture) and non-combustible, as simple and easy to install as possible.

Layer No. 3: waterproofing

Insulation is not enough protection against water only from the side of the room. Another barrier is required, but from the side of the roof. Water can also enter from there. Therefore, a waterproofing layer is necessarily laid on top of the heat insulator. This is a film or membrane. It is optimal for one side of the material to be completely waterproof and the other to let steam through. Thus, the insulation will be able to "breathe" and water will not get into it.

An important nuance. If the bath is built without an attic, warming is done only from the inside. If the attic is present, then the insulation can be laid both inside the room and outside. The decisive role here will be played by the material by which the insulation will be made. For example, plate and roll coatings can be laid in any way, but bulk or bulk only from the outside.

Mineral wool

The common name for a group of heaters with similar properties. For thermal insulation of the ceiling, you can use:

• Glass wool, which is made from glass fibers.
• Slag, made from slag from blast furnaces.
• Stone wool, made from molten rock.

Their common advantages include low thermal conductivity, good resistance to temperature extremes and fire resistance. The average life of the materials is 40-50 years, due to the high resistance to decay and reproduction of pathogenic microflora. The main disadvantages are the loss of insulating properties even with slight wetting and brittle fibers, which leads to strong dusting.

Comparative characteristics of mineral watts are presented in the table

Wadded heaters are made in the form of plates and rolls. The first are more convenient in styling. Some manufacturers produce foil coatings, which is very convenient because the metallized layer reflects heat rays and delays evaporation.

Expanded clay of various fractions

Environmentally friendly insulation, produced in the form of clay granules of various sizes. The advantages of the material are:

• low thermal conductivity
• fire resistance
• immunity to high humidity,
• resistance to mold and mildew.

Of the disadvantages expanded clay it should be noted the need to backfill a sufficiently high layer of insulation, which can lead to an increase in the weight of the overlap. In addition, the top layer of granules is capable of absorbing water, especially if technology was violated during the production process. Wet material loses its insulation characteristics and dries for a very long time. Therefore, the presence of hydro and vapor barrier is necessary.

Polyfoam and expanded polystyrene

They are made in the form of plates of various thicknesses. Polyfoam is a gas-filled material with low thermal conductivity. Expanded polystyrene is its denser variety. The advantages of insulators include:

• high thermal insulation characteristics,
• light weight
• low water absorption, especially in polystyrene foam,
• resistance to reproduction of mold and mildew,
• budget cost.

The main disadvantage of the material is destruction under the influence of elevated temperatures. The insulator quickly ignites and burns, releasing extremely toxic substances. You should think about this when choosing this insulation for a bath.

Ecowool

Fully eco-friendly cellulose-based insulation impregnated with sodium tetraborate and boric acid. The advantages of using the material are:

• low thermal conductivity of the coating,
• resistance to temperature changes,
• light weight
• long term of operation,
• almost complete resistance to damage by insects, microorganisms, fungi.

Of the shortcomings, it is worth noting the complexity of installation. If it is produced by the so-called “wet” method, and this happens most often, the use of special equipment is required.

This is not all coatings that are used for insulation. Sometimes, as an insulator, eco-friendly materials are chosen, which decades have been successfully used by home craftsmen. it clay with sawdust or with leaves. The composition of the mixture may vary. Shavings, cement, peat, chernozem, straw, etc. are added in various proportions.

Insulation of the ceiling type

The ceiling is used in small areas. Its main difference is the absence of support beams. Ceiling boards are laid directly on the top of the wall. This greatly simplifies and reduces the cost of installation, but also gives some limitations. The design is not designed for large mass, so the insulation layer should be light.

Thermal insulation is laid in this way:

1. We lay and fix the ceiling slats. If it is assumed that the insulation layer will be high and free space is needed, we fix the boards below the upper edge of the walls. Or, over the ceiling, we nail small sides around the entire perimeter.
2. We carry out vapor barrier. We put the selected material on the board from the attic. If the coating is foil, then the metallized side should be laid down. We put strips with an overlap of at least 10 cm. Be sure to fix the seams and joints with tape.
3. We mount thermal insulation. The installation method depends on the type of insulation. The plates are laid one next to the other end-to-end, the rolled material is rolled in strips. Laying is done tightly, there should not be a distance between the insulation fragments.
4. We install waterproofing. A film, membrane or material such as roofing material rolls in strips. We put the panels with an overlap of 10 or 15 cm and be sure to glue all the resulting joints and seams.

Finished insulation is closed with boards or plywood sheets.

False ceiling insulation

This type of construction is more durable and reliable. It assumes the presence of support beams that are laid on the walls. From below, a ceiling is hemmed to these beams, from where the name appeared. Above - attic floor is attached, if it is planned. Thanks to this design heater for the bath on the ceiling can be any. True, the technology of its installation may vary somewhat.

We will analyze it using mineral wool as an example.

1. On top of the beams from the roof we lay waterproofing. We attach the film to the tree with a stapler. We overlap the strips, overlapping one another by 10 or 15 cm. Gently glue the joints with adhesive tape.
2. We lay plywood or boards on top of the insulation. The resulting flooring can be used as an attic floor.
3. From the side of the room we lay the insulation, placing it between the beams. The number of layers varies, but in any case, one will not be enough. We put the insulator so that the joints of the first layer overlap with strips of material in the second.
4. We mount a vapor barrier. Stripes of film or membrane are cut so that they go onto the walls. We unfold the cover with the "breathing" side down and fix it to the beams. We do this very carefully so that there are no gaps.
5. On top of the finished insulation perpendicular to the beams, we mount the rails on which we hem the ceiling.

If you need to lay bulk insulation, for example, expanded clay, ecowool, etc., another technology is used. In this case, the draft ceiling is first hemmed to the beams. Its cracks are sealed, vapor barrier is laid. Then the insulation is poured, waterproofing is put. A decorative ceiling is mounted over the draft ceiling.

Panel ceiling insulation

To perform quality ceiling insulation in a cold roof bath, you can use the panel. These are peculiar modules, inside of which there is a heater. Of these, the ceiling is subsequently assembled. This is more time consuming than all the others.

Work begins with the manufacture of module panels:

1. From the boards we knock down the shield, the size of which should correspond to the future module. On the inside, we nail the props, which will act as sides.
2. We put the vapor barrier in the resulting box. We spread it on the sides and bottom with stripes with an overlap. Glued joints. We fix the film with a stapler.
3. We install thermal insulation. You can take any, but it is better to choose a heater with a minimum weight. Panels with expanded clay or a mixture of sawdust with cement will turn out to be heavy, which greatly complicates their installation.
4. We put waterproofing on top. Stripes are overlapped, joints are glued. Next, we lay the boards. They will become the attic floor.

The panels thus prepared remain to be lifted up and put into place. Between them, a seal is necessarily laid. It can be jute, clippings of mineral wool or a mixture of sawdust and cement. It is advisable to lay solid panels under the panels, which will become the ceiling in the room. Do the same from the attic, laying floorboards on top of the panels.

How to insulate the ceiling in the bath: folk method

This method is widely used by masters and gives a good result. To begin with, the ceiling is going. It must be strong to withstand a sufficiently large weight of the insulation. Practice shows that the best option in this case is a magpie board stacked across the room. If space dimensions require it, to reinforce the structure, sixties boards are laid perpendicularly from the inside.

Further work is carried out as follows:

1. We install waterproofing from the roof. If required, we put a film with an overlap of 10 or 15 cm, glue the joints. At the edges we leave a lap, so that the insulation comes into the walls by 20 cm.
2. We fill the sawdust with a layer of 15 cm. Do not forget to tamp well. In the recommendations the better to insulate the ceiling in the bathhouse from above often indicate chips, but it is difficult to compact, so their layer should be higher.
3. We lay a layer of clay that will protect the sawdust from fire and increase the life of the heat insulator. A layer 10 cm high will be enough.

A clay pillow is covered with boards or sheets of plywood.

Another option for such insulation is presented in the video.

In a bath with a cold roof, ceiling insulation is necessary. It will make it possible to significantly reduce heating costs and extend the life of the building. It is important only to choose the right insulation and competently carry out all the work.

Why is the roof cold

A cold roof is called when a roofing pie, consisting of several layers of insulation, was not provided in the bathhouse even at the construction stage. Such a roof is considered as reliable as possible - the master builds the rafter system and stacks the roofing material in series.

The insulated roof has such quality characteristics:

• forms a special microclimate inside the building,
• serves as a protective barrier against damage,
• accumulates and saves 30% of heat.

According to the technology, do-it-yourself insulation is carried out in several ways:

• work is carried out by the attic,
• closer to the steam room.

How to insulate the ceiling of the bath with expanded clay with your own hands

Expanded clay is a natural material obtained from clay shale by firing. In finished form, it represents granules or grains of different sizes. Experts recommend using expanded clay to warm the ceiling in a bath with a cold roof, referring to its characteristics:

• ease,
• security,
• not amenable to moisture and temperature changes,
• when heated, does not emit toxic components,
• odorless
• retains heat well
• does not collect dust
• not subject to fire, which is very important for a steam room.

Step-by-step insulation of the ceiling in a bath with a cold expanded clay roof consists of the following steps:

1. Clean the ceiling of dust and dirt.
2. Lay a film with vapor barrier properties on the attic surface. For a firm hold, secure with a construction stapler or joiner's tape. To make the material fit snugly, overlap the film. A larger inlet must be provided for the chimney and roof truss system.
3. Pay attention to the granularity of expanded clay fractions - 4-10 mm are used for better insulation, if you need to close the attic, a layer of such a material with a thickness of 15-30 cm is enough. If the flooring of the attic is treated with wooden planks, expanded clay is poured between the logs.

Ecowool insulation

Ecowool did not take root to insulate the ceiling in residential premises, but it suits the bath very well. Ecowool installation involves several installation methods:

1. The dry method describes the folding between the logs of the ecowool's attic room and its mandatory compaction, for this, dense polyethylene is used.
2. A wet option is only possible if there is special equipment that distributes glue on the cellulose fibers under pressure. As a result, a solid surface is formed, consisting of ecowool and air space. The layer thickness ideally reaches 15-30 cm, depending on climatic conditions.

Experts recommend stacking a larger volume of ecowool, because it is able to condense over time. I want to keep more heat - give preference to the wet method, just a few weeks and the material will be covered with a reliable crust.

The advantages of warming the ceiling of an ecowool bath have already been appreciated by the owners of the steam rooms:

1. Small specific weight allows you to equip styling of any thickness. There is no additional load on the ceiling of the attic, because the loose structure alternates with air gaps.
2. Long period of operation.
3. Fights against mold and harmful bacteria.
4. High-quality ecowool is still processed at the factory with flame retardants that are not subject to burning and provoke attenuation if a fire in the steam room already exists.

Work with natural materials

Despite the wide selection of modern heaters, many in the old fashion prefer safe natural substances. Of these, the three leaders in terms of thermal conductivity and effectiveness are felt, dried leaves and tow. Then in decreasing order follows moss, needles and mats made of straw.

The ceiling of the bathhouse with a cold roof can be treated with sawdust, thin shavings, and reeds. From reeds form floorings, fastened with strong ropes. Bulrush shows the following positive characteristics:

• isolates the ceiling of the bath from moisture and heat escape,
• is inexpensive
• rodents do not start in it.

When decorating the ceiling with sawdust, remember that despite the cheap cost of the material, it is imperative to provide for the option of processing the insulation with flame retardants - only then it will lose high combustibility.

A step-by-step instruction for laying sawdust on the ceiling of the bathhouse looks like this:

1. Apply liquid clay to the attic surface.
2. So that later dry clay does not crack, sprinkle with sand.
3. The next layer of carbide and slaked lime will help to protect the room from the settlement of rodents.
4. Sawdust is sprinkled with a layer of 15 cm or more, up to 30 cm in regions with severe winters.

The option of thermal insulation of the steam room with another heater - stone wool, is clearly shown in the video instruction:

How to insulate the ceiling in the bath properly - do-it-yourself insulation options

Heated air tends to rise and, if there is no barrier on its way, then it goes into the atmosphere. This barrier is the ceiling. In case of insufficient insulation, about 2/3 of the thermal energy can go through it. Therefore, in order not to incur unnecessary expenses for heating the street, it is necessary to warm the ceiling of the bathhouse with your own hands. Everything should be organized in such a way that condensation does not form on the wood, and because of it microorganisms that can destroy the building material do not appear.

Types of baths in accordance with the features of the roof

Depending on the design features of the roof, log saunas or log saunas are divided into buildings with and without an attic.

Baths with an attic have a significantly more powerful ceiling, which prevents the leakage of warm air from the room. In this case, the insulation of the ceiling of the bath
produced during the construction process. Also to reduce losses helps the air mass, which filled the space under the roof. Insulation of the roof will keep the heat a little longer.

In a building that does not have an attic, the barriers to retaining heat are much smaller and they are too weak, so warming is especially necessary here. But you also need to do the insulation of the ceiling in a bathhouse with an attic or attic.

Features of vapor barrier

In any case, the vapor barrier material is laid first, and then the thermal barrier.

The following materials are used as vapor barrier in saunas without an attic:

• aluminium foil,
• thick cardboard, well saturated with drying oil,
• wax paper.

For buildings with an attic, the same materials are used, but clay is most often used. It is applied to the ceiling boards from the side of the roof with a layer equal to 2 cm (read also: "How to insulate the roof of the bath with your own hands - we choose the material and method of insulation").

Of the materials manufactured by the industry are used:

• Polyethylene film (0.4 mm with variations). It creates a greenhouse effect and therefore is not popular. When using this material, leave the gap required to evaporate the condensate formed.
• A special vapor barrier polyethylene film having fibers that can hold condensate.
• Vapor barrier membrane.

The main task of vapor barrier is to delay the steam and prevent it from getting on the heater. Due to accumulated moisture, the life of the insulating material is reduced, the weight of the ceiling structure increases, and the quality of insulation decreases.

Functions of a heater of bath ceilings

With the increase in the required temperature in the room, the construction of the barrier is complicated to prevent heat loss. This problem can be solved by laying thermal insulation material in a multilayer ceiling structure.

Thermal insulation eliminates the following types of heat leaks:

• heat loss through ceiling slots,
• the gradual movement of heat from heated objects to cold,
• overcoming homogeneous obstacles with warm air.

With the proper organization of insulation, all the functions assigned to it will be implemented. In the case of illiterate thermal insulation, problems such as condensation, prolonged heating of the room, and waste of more fuel can occur.

Types of insulation materials

Before starting work on thermal insulation, you must choose how to insulate the attic of the bath.

Mineral wool is randomly interwoven fibers, air voids are formed between them, which perform the function of retaining heat. This heater on the ceiling in the bath is used most often. When wet, mineral wool loses its heat-insulating qualities. If the roof has insufficient protection against rainwater leaks, then it is recommended to lay waterproofing material on top of the insulation. Between the layers of waterproofing and insulation there should be a thermal insulation gap.

Also, the ceiling in the bath can be insulated with foamed polypropylene. This material is very light and will not burden the ceiling structure. Especially for baths and saunas, foil-coated material was developed on one side. In addition to the main function of warming, it reflects the heat flux on the foil side. Acting on the principle of a mirror, this insulation material provides faster heating of the steam room.

As well as insulation for the ceiling in the bath, expanded clay can be used. It is used in large baths. It is necessary to fill in expanded clay with a uniform layer equal to 30 cm. The material is relatively light, but, nevertheless, the weight of the ceiling structure will increase. This insulation material, like mineral wool, absorbs moisture well, therefore, a waterproofing layer is also required.

Another option than to insulate the ceiling in the bath with your own hands is the so-called "people's" heat insulator.

In this case, warming is carried out as follows:

• Soft clay is laid in a layer of 2 cm. It can be replaced with a mixture of black soil and peat, wood shavings, which are poured with cement mortar, clay can also be mixed with sawdust or sand.
• Sawdust or oak leaves fall asleep (you can replace any others).
• Dry earth is poured with a layer equal to 15 cm.

Also, to insulate the ceiling in the bath, a growing aerated concrete is used. To fill it, you need to make the simplest formwork.

Here are various types of thermal insulation materials. And what is the best insulation for the ceiling in the bath to use is determined in each case.

Technology of ceiling insulation

Let's consider in stages how to properly insulate the ceiling in the bath:

• Boards are attached to the bottom of the beams.
• Roll panels are made, that is, low-quality boards are taken and two rows perpendicular to each other are knocked together. It should look like a box. Before knocking down the roll-up shields on the ceiling in the bath with your own hands, it is necessary to make calculations. Beams and panels should not be placed tightly to each other, between them you must leave at least 5 cm gaps. There must be a minimum distance of 25 cm from the chimney to the wooden panels. You need to draw a diagram, and in accordance with it, calculate the size and shape of each of the panels . To avoid confusion during installation, all boards must be numbered.
• Finished shields must also be soaked with antiseptic agents.
• Inside each shield, vapor barrier spreads. It must be fixed with brackets.
• Shields rise up. You need to start with those that will be installed last.
• Shields are arranged in accordance with the numbering. Installation is carried out in such a way that the lower planes of the shield and the beams coincide.
• Then, heat-insulating material is placed in the “boxes”. It is also necessary to insulate the joints between the boards and beams. The owners of the bath independently choose the better to insulate the ceiling in the bath. The choice depends on a combination of different factors.
• Boards are laid on top. They must be placed across the beams. In this case, it is not necessary to take a full-length board, you can use short boards. Boards can be replaced with fiberboard or self-made slabs of cement mixed with sawdust.
• The finished ceiling should be treated with fire fighting agents.
• All wooden elements located near the chimney must be covered with asbestos sheets.

The insulated ceiling is ready.

Heat insulation of the ceiling in the steam room

The ceiling of the steam room should perform two functions: not to let warm air and steam out and to ensure the accumulation of steam in the room. The ceiling of the steam room should contain two layers of vapor barrier and additional layers of thermal insulation.

Consider several options for installing a ceiling in a steam room.

Design from Sosnina Yu.P. and Bukharkina E.N.

Sosnin Yu.P. and Bukharkin E.N. the authors of the book "Household stoves, fireplaces and water heaters" offer the following option, how to insulate the ceiling in a steam room:

• Grooved boards 25 mm thick are taken and attached to the beams. Boards must be coated with varnish in two layers, which should give them moisture resistance.
• From above, beams of low quality are attached to the beams. There should be a distance of 3 cm between them. This creates a moisture gap.
• Next, ruberoid or plastic film spreads over the boards. Reinforced foil is best.
• Slag or sand falls asleep. The layer should be equal to 20 cm.

Other methods of thermal insulation of the ceiling in the steam room

The technology for performing thermal insulation using clay and mineral wool is as follows:

• For hemming from below to the ceiling beams, an unedged board 5 cm thick is used.
• Outside along the beams with the help of capercaillie, a narrow board is attached. It is necessary to support the binder.
• Grooved aspen boards are screwed onto a fixed thin board, and a ventilation gap must be left between them.
• From the attic there is a vapor barrier material.
• Then, clay mixed with sawdust is laid in a layer of 3 cm.
• Mineral wool is laid. It is necessary to take insulation with a density of 125 units and having a width of 15 cm.
• To protect against wind, a polypropylene film spreads.
• At the end, the attic floor is made of planks

If there is a log floor in the bathhouse, then first the crate is made, and then the lining is attached to it. As a vapor barrier, glassine is spread on top. Then sand is poured with a layer equal to 20 cm. Other actions depend on the desire of the owner of the bath.

For proper warming of the bath, you need to know which insulation is best for the bath on the ceiling, in what sequence you need to arrange the layers, as well as the features of ceiling insulation in the steam room. The ceiling options described above can be changed depending on climatic conditions and personal preferences.

How to insulate the ceiling in the bath with your own hands?

Good thermal insulation is the basis for a comfortable stay in any room. For the insulation of rooms for various purposes, different types of insulation materials are used. The difference between a bathhouse and other rooms in a constantly changing temperature. When heated, warm air rises, but reaching the cold surface of the ceiling, it immediately cools. The bath quickly gets cold. Let's talk about how to insulate the ceiling in the bath with your own hands to cope with a constantly changing temperature.

Types and properties of insulation

To understand the question of how to insulate the ceiling in the bath, you need to have an idea of ​​the means used for this purpose.

Bathhouse is a special place with high humidity and frequent temperature changes. Therefore, insulating materials should have the following properties:

• resistance to moisture and temperature surges,
• resistance to the appearance of mold
• the possibility of combining with finishing materials and ceilings,
• environmental cleanliness, without evaporation of harmful compounds with increasing temperature,
• the ability to retain heat
• easy installation.

To warm the ceiling in the bath, you can use the following tools:

2 varieties: A - protection against condensate, wind from the outside, B - protects the premises from the steam released from the inside

Low density basalt fiber slabs

Cheap for roof insulation. A ground layer is surely poured on top

Porous, clay material in the form of capsules of different densities. A wide layer is required for good insulation.

Insulates moisture from the inside. Available in rolls, fastened with a stapler to the entire ceiling

Fiberglass-coated plates or rolls

Low thermal conductivity, fire resistance, easy to install

You can insulate the ceiling in the bath inexpensively using sawdust, or purchase a better insulation.

These materials retain heat well in the room, while regulating the flow of air.

Varieties of ceilings in the bath

Before proceeding with the insulation of the ceiling of the bathhouse with your own hands, you need to figure out which ceiling coating is installed in the room. Depending on the structure and construction of the ceiling, you can choose the option of insulating material.

Ceilings in the bath are:

• flooring (in small buildings). The design consists of boards resting on the walls of the building.,
• hemming (large rooms). There is the possibility of building an attic compartment,
• panel mounted from the same panel size. A sophisticated version of the ceiling.

Regardless of the installation of the ceiling covering of the bath, it is important to properly insulate the room. Let us consider in turn each variety and methods of insulation.

Floor covering

Watch the video how to insulate the ceiling of a bath with a floor covering. Here, the boards laid on the walls of the building are fixed around the entire perimeter of the room, there are no floor beams. Check out step-by-step work:

• a layer of vapor barrier material is laid on a wooden floor,
• there is a heater on top,
• when using expanded clay or mineral wool mats, attach borders around the entire perimeter in advance. Therefore, it is important to first decide on the choice of material,
• cover the insulation with a waterproofing film,
• plywood sheets or boards are laid on top of the entire structure.

Such insulation is practiced only in small buildings.

False ceilings

To understand how to do the insulation of the ceiling of the bath with your own hands on a false ceiling surface, we consider the device of such a coating:

1. beam ceilings rest on the walls - they also serve as a frame basis for the rest of the coating details,
2. waterproofing is installed in the attic, which will protect buildings from moisture,
3. wood or plywood flooring is laid from the attic,
4. the insulation is laid between the ceilings, and is closed from the inside with a special vapor barrier,
5. from above the design is sewn up with lining.

Various materials are used to warm the false ceiling of the bath, the sequence of work depends on them.

Expanded insulation is claydite. The insulation is laid in the following sequence:

1. draft boards are attached from the inside to the floors (a kind of box is mounted),
2. the resulting cracks are covered with a layer of clay with lime and sawdust - vapor barrier is obtained,
3. expanded clay is poured into the box and covered with a protective film,
4. mounted flooring of their boards.

After solidification of the laid mixture, you can add mineral insulation, or pour another layer of expanded clay.

We use mineral wool

The ceiling is insulated in a bath with a cold roof with mineral wool in the following sequence:

1. on the attic side, waterproofing material is fixed to the floors, there is a coating of boards from above,
2. insulation is laid between the beams on the inside,
3. the whole structure is closed by vapor barrier,
4. to fix the frame using wooden slats.

For comfort, the slats can be covered with a clapboard.

We warm the panel ceiling

The panel structure is a panel made of supporting bars. The boards lined with boards have a layer of vapor and waterproofing inside. For such a ceiling coating, mineral wool is most often used. Although the insulation layer should be at least 100 mm, the structure is lightweight.

• laying a vapor barrier,
• insulation
• waterproofing.

For the panel version of the ceiling coating, the process of laying the insulation is considered the most difficult. This is explained by the fact that insulating layers must be laid between all panels.

Watch a video on how to insulate the ceiling of a bathhouse with your own hands with various materials, depending on the ceiling coating.

External insulation

The room can be insulated both from the inside and from the outside. The advantage of external insulation:

• materials are not affected by temperature, steam,
• there is no condensation action on the insulation layers,
• heat is not lost.

Insulation of the ceiling of the bathhouse from the outside is necessary in order to prevent the release of heat to the outside. The following materials are used:

• mineral wool. The most common type of insulation, in which the minus is laying an additional layer of waterproofing,
• expanded clay is used for insulation from the attic. Although the expanded clay layer reaches 20 cm, the design does not become much heavier,
• polystyrene is one of the cheapest heaters. But, when the ceiling is heated, the foam emits harmful substances, is unstable to fire.

For baths made of brick or concrete, mineral wool will be the optimal external insulation. Polyfoam is also best used for brick buildings. Expanded clay is suitable for buildings of any type.

Making the walls and ceiling warmer

No matter what materials your bath is built of. For comfortable use of the building, it is necessary to insulate it completely. Insulation of the walls and ceiling in the bath will enable the structure to warm up better and faster, and spend less time and energy on kindling it.

In order to insulate the ceiling and walls in the bath, it is necessary to lay insulation in the dressing room, steam room and the washing compartment itself. No need to be afraid of high costs, then everything will pay off. After all, you will have to spend several times less firewood on a heated room.

Some owners insulate the baths with ancient methods, laying floors and partitions of the building with moss or tow. On the one hand, these are natural, environmentally friendly materials. On the other hand, such a heater will not last long. He will either be stolen by birds, or insects will damage.

It is advisable to think about the insulation of the walls and ceiling covering of the bath before its construction. So it will be easier, during the construction process, once laying insulation materials. You can use linen, felt or jute. This is the finish on the outside. The inside of the bath can be processed no earlier than six months later. Like any structure, the bath will shrink.

After shrinkage, it is possible to caulk the seams with felt, and treat it with an airtight substance on top to prevent moisture from entering.

The walls in the bathhouse are insulated as follows:

1. on the supporting walls a block lathing is fixed (horizontal and vertical). The thickness of the bars should be about 2 cm wider than the insulation. The frame is mounted to protect the insulation material from wear,
2. between the grates are laid glass wool plates or mineral insulation,
3. on top, overlapping, vapor barrier based on foil4
4. all joints must be covered with aluminum tape,
5. the battens are fixed to the entire structure. Its purpose is to create ventilation between the vapor-insulating material and the finish.

At the end of work, the structure is sewn up with lining.
The foil is used in rooms of high humidity - steam rooms and washing. For the dressing room and rest room, kraft paper is suitable. The foil can be replaced with polyethylene. Instead of lining, try plating with plasterboard sheets or planed boards.

Do not forget that the full insulation of the room includes all the elements of the structure. This also applies to windows. They also need to be insulated: fit the frames, seal the cracks. Warm air will leave the room for a long time.

Watch a detailed video of the insulation of the ceiling of the bath.

If the ceiling is wooden

Step-by-step instructions for warming a bath with a wooden ceiling:

1. fiberglass is applied to the rough boards,
2. dilute the mixture of clay and sand (1: 1 ratio), mix with sawdust. Fill the fiberglass with the mixture (casting layer thickness 30 mm),
3. the next casting layer consists of a mixture of clay with sand and vermiculite (1: 3),
4. depending on weather conditions, leave the layers to dry completely. This can take anywhere from 2.5 weeks to 2 months,
5. put polystyrene (150 mm) on a mixture of clay and sand,
6. mix the cement with polystyrene crumbs (1: 3) and pour onto the polystyrene.

Warming is finished. If there is an attic room above the bathhouse, the last pouring layer must be covered with roofing material or a wooden flooring should be mounted.

We warm concrete floors

If the bathhouse is made of concrete, then the insulation is performed as follows:

1. from the inside of the bath, wooden beams are attached under the ceiling surface,
2. fiberglass is attached to concrete slabs,
3. insulation layer
4. a layer of foil fabric
5. rack crate,
6. pour expanded clay in the attic compartment,
7. insulation.

If necessary, you can lay a plank floor. Carefully inspect the entire room so that there are no gaps or crevices. And for ventilation, leave a few small gaps between the facing material and the foil fabric on the ceiling of the bath.

This method of insulation can be compared with the operation of a thermos: inside the washing room and steam room, the heat is held for a long time. You can stay in the bath longer, but less time will be spent on kindling.

We warm the steam room

To exclude the release of heat through the roof of the bath, you need to take care of the insulation of the ceiling space. To warm the steam room, you must perform the following steps:

1. paper roll is attached from the inside, overlapping to the ceiling,
2. with the help of screws and nails, a frame of wood blocks is fixed on top of the paper. Try to keep the bars close to each other. So you can avoid the formation of voids,
3. we put insulation on the frame. Use the straps to hold the material
4. the frame structure is sewn up with foil fabric (it is possible in two layers),
5. we fasten the wooden bars, which will become the basis for the lining.

In order to qualitatively insulate the room, it is necessary to perform work step by step. Do not forget to wear protective clothing during operation. Cover open areas of the body, use eye glasses.

Dry ceiling insulation method

There is another way - a dry method of warming the ceiling surface of the bath. Bulk materials used for dry insulation include:

Warming is carried out in the attic of the building. Bulk material is poured between the wooden logs. It is advisable to install logs during the construction of the bath.

Mixed insulation is a combination of dry and wet insulation methods. The essence of the method: dry insulation is poured onto the prepared surface, then there is a waterproofing screed. This method gives a good result.

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Features

Not only residential buildings, but also baths need good insulation. If you neglect the installation of thermal insulation material, a comfortable temperature will not be maintained in such a structure. Warm air, so necessary in a bathhouse, will simply leave the room. However, the problem of leaving warm air is not the main one. Also, without insulation on the ceiling in the bath, harmful condensation will accumulate. Because of it, unpleasant drops will drip onto people from above, which can be very annoying.

Moisture leaving along with the heat will negatively affect the ceiling. Under the influence of such external factors, structures run the risk of rotting and deforming. Further repair of the bath will require free time and money.

Today on the market there are a large number of manufacturers producing high-quality thermal insulation materials. Thanks to this, every consumer will be able to choose suitable heaters.

It is quite possible to do the insulation of the ceiling in the bath yourself. To do this, you do not need to be an experienced craftsman or have the appropriate education. The main thing in this matter is to strictly adhere to the instructions and use only high-quality materials.

To insulate the ceiling in the bath, you need to use materials that have the following important characteristics:

• they must be resistant to fire and not support the flame,
• the insulation must be environmentally friendly and absolutely safe for human health,
• the material must be resistant to dampness and moisture, which are inevitable in a bathhouse.

Fortunately, in modern retail outlets it is quite simple to find materials that meet all of the above requirements. The bathhouse may have a ceiling with or without attic space. In both cases, the building will need reliable insulation. The only difference is that in the absence of an attic space you will have not many ways to lay a heat-insulating material.

It is also worth considering another important feature - if your bath is built of wood, it will need a literally perfect roof insulation. Mistakes in this case are fatal. This can lead to decay and deformation of floor structures.

Of course, you can coat a tree with special moisture-proof and anti-fungal impregnations in order to extend the life of the material and make sure in case of improper installation of insulation. However, such remedies are not omnipotent. Even if you apply them to ceiling structures, under the constant action of steam, they will fail and the bath will have to be repaired.

Experts say that with all the technologies for installing insulating materials, you can avoid serious mistakes. The main thing is not to neglect any of the necessary stages of work. In this case, the result will not disappoint you.

Material Selection Criteria

A suitable insulation for a Russian bath should be chosen according to the following important criteria:

• Possibility of combining with other building materials. The thermal insulation coating should be combined with other materials without affecting their specific qualities.
• Failure to accumulate condensate. In no case should insulation material accumulate excess moisture in its structure - this will necessarily negatively affect the ceiling structure, especially if it is made of wood.
• Minimal moisture absorption. When choosing a heater, pay attention to ensure that it has a minimum value of water absorption
• Certificates of quality and safety.When buying a heater for a cold roof in a bathhouse, it is necessary to require all the necessary quality certificates from the seller. The material must meet sanitary and hygienic and fire safety requirements.

If the material of your choice for thermal insulation of the bath meets all of the above criteria, then inside the steam room and the dressing room it will be not only warm and comfortable, but also safe.

Materials

Today, the market is replete with insulating materials. They are made from various raw materials and have their own distinctive qualities. Let's get to know more closely the most popular and popular heaters, which are in demand among most homeowners.

Mineral wool

Most often, people choose the good old mineral wool as a bath insulation. Despite the fact that there are many good alternatives to this material on the market, many users continue to buy it.

This insulation is sold in rolls, plates and cylinders. For insulation of the roof and ceiling, roll materials or plates are most often chosen.. They fit easily and quickly. Mineral wool in the cylinders is usually insulated with piping bases.

Let's get acquainted with the main advantages of mineral wool that make it popular:

• This material is characterized by high thermal insulation, which is especially important for a bath. It can be installed in almost any environment. However, it should be borne in mind that during its installation other insulators will be required.
• Mineral wool is a waterproof material. High-quality glass and basalt wool contribute to the transmission of steam and do not absorb excess moisture. Thanks to this quality, mineral wool can be safely used to protect structures from the appearance of dampness.
• Mineral wool is characterized by good air exchange. Such a heater will promote air circulation. The base will “breathe” and will last much longer.

• Also, this thermal insulation material boasts good soundproofing qualities. Being in a bathhouse insulated with such a coating, you will not be distracted by extraneous sounds coming from the street.
• Minvata is not afraid of aggressive chemicals. It is not destroyed by the action of acids and alkalis.
• Mineral wool is a fire-resistant material, which is very important for a bath. Moreover, in contact with fire, this insulation does not emit caustic smoke.
• Such material has a long service life. High-quality mineral wool can last from 25 to 50 years.
• Many consumers choose mineral wool, since it is safe from an environmental point of view.

However, this material has some disadvantages:

• The qualities of mineral wool are significantly affected if it absorbs too much water. Under the influence of such a factor, this material may not be as effective.
• Another disadvantage of mineral wool is considered to be a fairly high level of dusting. In such a heater there are very brittle fibers, and their fragments are sharp and thin. If they get on the skin, they cause severe itching and irritation. You can work with such a heater only in special protective clothing and glasses.

There are several varieties of mineral wool:

• stone (or basalt),
• slag
• glass wool.

More affordable is the budget glass wool. It has a special fibrous structure and a yellowish tint. Such material is made from cullet, borax, sand, soda, limestone and dolomite.

Glass wool is characterized by good thermal qualities. In addition, it easily tolerates strong vibrations. When compressed, glass wool reduces its volume by almost 6 times. Glass wool is the mildest type of insulation of all subspecies of mineral wool.

It is recommended to lay it only on those bases that will not be subjected to severe loads.

Not so long ago, glass wool in slabs appeared on sale, which is often used for warming facade bases. Such material is more durable and reliable. but it is worth considering that glass wool is not only the softest, but also the most prickly insulation. You need to work with it very carefully. For this Protective clothing must be worn.

Basalt cotton wool is very popular among masters, as it is durable and keeps its shape.

Such a heater can be made from:

Components such as dolomite and limestone are also added to these components.

Stone wool is good in that it can withstand severe mechanical stress. In addition, this material does not burn and does not absorb moisture, which are decisive characteristics for a bath.

Often basalt wool is made with a special substrate of foil or fiberglass. To make the material more durable and reliable, it is additionally stitched with special glass fibers. Instead, they sometimes use wire.

This material is used a little less often than others, as it absorbs moisture. For this reason, it is better not to use slag for warming the bath ceiling - it will quickly fail and require replacement. In addition, this material is not designed for any load.

Penoplex

Penoplex is considered to be the material of a new generation, despite the fact that it was invented 70 years ago.

Its main advantages are:

• high hydrophobicity
• low weight, which makes it cheap to transport and easy to install
• good strength characteristics
• composition with anti-corrosion components,
• the ability to install penoplex in almost any environment
• does not cause allergies
• does not attract insects and rodents.

Of course, penplex, like the rest of the insulation, there are weaknesses, which include:

• exposure to burning
• fear of contact with solvents (when interacting with them, penoplex dissolves),
• high price.

Inside the structure of this insulation foam and air are present. Due to this feature, this material is not subject to corrosion, destruction from time to time and is not afraid of interaction with moisture.

Clay

The ceiling in the bath can be insulated with clay. But do not think that this process will be very simple and affordable. In its pure form, this material is not recommended.

It has long been combined with:

• sawdust
• ground with straw
• tree bark
• sand
• expanded clay.

Most often, clay is combined with straw, sawdust and sand. It is advisable to use expanded clay only if you lay the clay mixture in layers.

Sawdust

If you decide to insulate the ceiling in the bath with sawdust, then you should consider that such material is the most fire hazard. In this case, flame retardant will not help. In addition, the sawdust is quite dirty, and in the event of a draft, they will gradually scatter throughout the bath.

However, this material is environmentally friendly and absolutely safe for human health. It does not cause allergies or other similar reactions. Most often, sawdust for insulation is combined with clay or cement. Sometimes sawdust is covered with soil from above.

Indoor and outdoor work

Warming of the bath is permissible to produce both inside and outside. The second installation option should be addressed if there is no attic in the building. In this case, it is best to use insulation in the form of flooring. Hemmed structures make the ceiling more reliable and strong.

In this case, the boards are attached to the beams from the inside of the room, as well as from the attic. In this case, multilayer heat-insulating materials must be laid between the decks. If you have a good two-story bathhouse (attic), then the installation of a multilayer insulation starts from the side of the lower floor.

First, a vapor insulator is mounted, and followed by a heater, waterproofing material and floor covering of the second floor.

Insulation scheme

In order to determine the tactics of conducting thermal insulation works, it is necessary to find out whether the ceiling base itself is hemmed or layered. In the case of a hemming base, a board is hemmed onto the installed support beams (in the lower part). In this case, the bars are closed from the inside and left only in the attic area.

If the method of overlapping is flat, then the board is fixed on top of the bars. Thus, the flooring is created in the attic. The bars themselves remain in the steam room.

If thermal insulation is carried out from the inside of the false ceiling, then the scheme of work will be as follows:

• first, on the floorboards, you need to fix the waterproofing film with perforation, which can let steam through,
• then a frame / crate is formed of wooden bars taking into account the step under the insulation mats,
• the next installation should be insulation (it must be laid out between the bars),
• waterproofing material follows, but in the bath it is recommended to use not a film, but a foil cloth,
• further according to the scheme there is a rail, which needs to be sewn on top of the bars.

If we are talking about insulation of the floor ceiling inside, then the layout of the materials will be as follows:

• first, on the boards located on the side of the attic, vapor barrier is laid,
• then a heater is laid on it (if it is mineral wool, then the thickness of its layer should be approximately 200-250 mm,
• followed by a vapor barrier,
• at the end, the floor in the attic is closed with planks.

How to insulate?

When you have studied the insulation scheme and the type of construction of the ceiling, you can proceed directly to its decoration with mineral wool, foam, clay or other materials. So that the result does not disappoint you, and the bath becomes warm and comfortable, you must follow the step-by-step instructions when installing the insulation. To begin with, it is worthwhile to consider in detail the guide to warming the ceiling.

Finishing such a base is carried out from the outside.

Stages of work:

• First you need to lay a vapor barrier on the flooring. It can be fixed with a construction stapler or nails.
• On top of the vapor barrier film, you need to put the insulation itself. If you use bulk material, such as expanded clay or sawdust with clay, then along the perimeter of the base it is necessary to nail a side, which will prevent the insulation from spilling.
• The resulting "pie", consisting of several layers, must be covered with waterproofing material.
• As a rule, thermal insulation is pressed against the boards, which were laid in increments of 40-50 cm.

Now you should consider how to insulate the false ceiling:

• First, vapor barrier material is nailed onto beams located on the ceiling. We recommend the use of paintings in which one of the sides is foil. The vapor barrier must be installed with a slight overlap of 10 cm (a similar approach must be done on the walls).
• Next to the beams you need to nail a lining or edged board. These materials should be pre-treated with antiseptic agents so that they do not rot.

To make the ceiling more robust and reliable, it is recommended to use sheet pile lumber in which there is a groove and a comb.

• Next, from the attic in the space between the beams you need to put a heater. Please note that the material must be laid correctly so that a dense layer is created without cracks and gaps.
• Make sure that the height of the insulating material reaches the top of the beams by 3-5 cm. Thus, the necessary space for ventilation is formed.
• Further, the insulation is covered with a waterproofing film. It must be put with an overlap of 10 cm.
• In conclusion, you should do the flooring from the boards.

If your ceiling in the bathhouse is panel and consists of separate shields made of boards and bars, then you will have to act differently:

• On 2 beams located in parallel, you need to nail boards with a length of 60 cm. Before this, it is very important to treat the tree with antiseptic compounds.
• On all sides, the board should be protruded by 5 cm. During the joining, the resulting gaps will be closed by insulation.
• Further, from the inside of the panel, a vapor barrier material needs to be fixed.
• The resulting structures must be put on the crate, fixed at the bottom of the floor beams.
• At the joints of the panels you need to install a heater that is resistant to moisture.
• At the final stage, you need to lay a plastic film - it will protect the finish of the attic floor. On the crate at the bottom of the ceiling, you can fill the lining.

Tips

If you decide to independently insulate the ceiling in the bath, then you should consider that you need to be especially careful about the steam room. If there are even the slightest flaws in the decoration of the ceiling, then the heat will certainly leave the room.

When working with vapor barrier films or foil, you should be as careful as possible. These materials can be accidentally torn, which will negatively affect their quality characteristics.

If you want to correctly lay the material, then it is better to do it slightly below the walls, so that you have free space for backfilling bulk materials or laying the same mineral wool. If this is not possible, it is necessary to fill small sides along the perimeter of the ceiling under the roof.

If you decide to insulate the ceiling with a mixture of clay and sawdust, then you need to consider that when using the bath in the warm season, the optimal layer thickness can be 50 mm. If you are going to bathe in it in the winter, it is better to put insulation with a layer of 150 mm.

If the floor is built of logs, then from the side of the bath you need to construct a crate. In this case, the logs must be covered with vapor barrier, covered with a 20 cm layer of sand on top, and then insulation should be carried out according to the usual scheme.

If we are talking about cranial boards, then they can be fixed on the top of the logs.

If you do not want to spend money on the purchase and installation of steam and waterproofing of the ceiling, then you should use high-tech insulation, which is made on the basis of mineral wool and has a foil layer. With such a coating, the installation of steam and waterproofing is not necessary.

Do not use material such as polystyrene to insulate the ceiling in the bathdespite its cheapness. When heated, it releases toxic substances that have a negative effect on human health.

Do not save on heat-insulating materials and do not look for too cheap copies, unless, of course, it is assumed that the ceiling is insulated with clay or sawdust. Suspiciously low price may indicate not the best quality insulation.

In the next video you will find an example of ceiling insulation in the bath.